Deeply woody and bricky, this opens to tea, fine adobe, honey and pippy sweetness, with lantana herbals and chocolate. The treacly richness exists within an amazing aromatic liveliness, thanks in part to a rainwater-juicy freshening lift. Very deep in the mouth, the palate interplays marmalade and molasses, with lots of complex volatile development character and wood-spice, yet still showing primary citrus through fine toffee. The palate leads with power then becomes increasingly mellow and ultimately outright fresh, with a juicy line. It's vibrant and delicate with toffee, spice and acidity in a persistent dancery. This masterpiece perfectly sums up the complex sugar-acid wood+time dancey delicacy of Madeira. Cane sugar, herb, jar fruits, nuts, lavish timber aromas, spice, sugar and acid are woven into a complex, effortless, magisterial amalgam. Unbelievable wine.