Telmo Rodríguez


'Gago' Tinta de Toro 2019


A vibrant, gently earthy wine, Gago is slick and polished, extremely well-organised, gently oaked. Organically grown fruit is selected from parcels grown at Villanueva and Valdefincas. Fermentation is in medium-sized stainless steel Tiñas and clean old oak vats. The wine is aged around 18 months in relatively neutral French oak 225 and 600 litre barrels. Beautifully made, with great finesse and excellent integration, unifying slick fruit and Toro earthiness via lovely, typical Toro nutty tannins, Gago begs for at least 3 years' cellaring to allow regional perfume, earth, and all the many layers of complexity to really express.

Black cherry, cassis and blue floral primary aromas are gorgeously smooth, smudged to interest with touches of game, truffle and chocolate, clove and soft dark wood spice. Silky dark, spicy fruit in the mouth is vegetal and lush, streaked with smoked heather and earthy minerals. A lively Toro-typical nutty acid-tannin structure affects a fresh, lively drink with good concentration of silky dark, spicy fruit. Elegant, with a lovely long line and terrific perfume release at end.