Rioja (Labastida)

Reserva 2015


Today's Remelluri Reservas are consistent with those of the past: refined, elegant, and not much marked by racking - all oak influence is clean and meaningful. However, since Telmo's return it's a noticeably brighter, marginally richer, fabulously brambly red berry wine with wonderful florals. Tempranillo predominantly, with a little Graciano and Garnacha, plus field blend Viura and 'Malvasia'. Fermentation is in large conical oak vats, with pipeage. Malo is mainly in vats, with a portion in barrique. New oak ageing is reserved for the most structured fruit; most gains secondary character from 'oxidative' ageing in older wood. After about 17 months ageing, it's bottled unfiltered.

This is a ground-breaker - a quantum shift in Remelluri. Lovely framing tannin is filled with purply mountain herbs and carriers hints of pepper, toasted lavender, sage, thyme. Fluidity inheres in and around a camshaft of tannin which quite literally gears the wine. Compelling!