Rioja (Labastida)

'La Granja' Tempranillo 2015


85% Tempranillo or so with Garnacha, Graciano and traces of Moscatel, Viura and 'Malvasia'. Spontaneous wild yeast fermentation in large oak vats precedes 27 months in oak, with 7 years of total bodega maturation before release into the market. As with the Reserva, nowadays the Remelluri reds are made in a mix of materials - larger foudre as well as barrique, but also cement and even demijohns.

An incredible, wafting nose: a potpourri of wild mountain herbs, spiced florals, and a gnurl of wizened tobacco dissolve into a delightful purple liquor. The mouth is a glacier of wonderful tannin, a tongue along my tongue, the wine mortised within, easily fit. The tannin radiates its wine, a slow and discreet movement, a reveal. At the end, the taste of a land.