Rioja (Labastida)

Blanco 2020


A 9-varietal Atlantic Mountain wine, reflecting the thrillingly cold and herb-laden soils of Remelluri's highest part. Telmo's aspiration was to show the countryside...the multi-varietal composition, accompanied by multiple fermentations in different technologies simply allows grapes and winemaking to be cancelled out in favour of the telling of the land. Various sizes and ages of oak, as well as stainless steel and concrete reflect a theory of 'disappearing winemaking' which Telmo has deployed to astonishing results in Rueda and Valdeorras whites (and increasingly in his reds), but the idea began with Remelluri Blanco. The whites are gently pressed, fermented with natural yeast, aged about 12 months, firstly in wood then rested in concrete before assemblage.

A twitch of herbs in a field of golden cereal, with barley water's savoury richness and fine earthiness. Smooth, super-characterful. With good weight and affecting texture, it's a wine of tremendous nerve and run.