Ribeira Sacra

'Mundín' Mencía 2020


Mundin is selected from granite soils in the zone known as Santa Maria de Nogueira. So, we are in Ribeira Sacra, in the sub-DO of Amandi, in the sub-zone of Nogueira and in a tiny ‘place’ or sub-sub-zone called Mundin. Come on, we can’t say the Gallegos are not true Spaniards at heart! Compared to their shallow slate sisters, these are relatively deep soils. The vines are about 60 years old.

2020 is one of the great vintages according to Pedro, early sprouting then a very long on-vine maturation. Varietal composition, winemaking and ageing are identical for Mundin and San Pedro; these are thus as close to ‘pure’ terroir comparisons as you’ll see anywhere in the wine world. They are also not just delicious, they’re Guimaro-delicious, wild and utterly free, yet orderly and coherent … precision-free precision??

Earthy and vegetal, with soy and distinct granitic smells. Red spectrum fruits have a lovely sourberry edge, spiced by native pepper pod aromas. A whaft of musk, rooibos tea (Mundin’s slate sister San Pedro is more chai-spiced). Agrodulce to the 9s, the sweet and sour tension working across the palate in a planar disc. Very mildly gamey with exquisite delicate tannins like they were just soaked fresh from the skins this morning and ultra-fine vegetally-infused acidity long, gentle and lingering out the back. Extremely gentle, delicate and pretty, but nobody’s fool, there’s tons of life and an almost electric feel of action without anything as bossy as drive.