Honorio Rubio

Rioja (Cardenas)

Lís Finas' Viura 2014

Honorio's lees-aged Viura is a textural masterpiece. It's fairly popular right now to go for 'textural' wines, but all-too-often such wines become a cloud of material without any real shape or direction; varietal and terroir code is all-too-easily obliterated. Not so with the Lias Finas Blanco and Clarete which Honorio crafts. The Viura (2,600 bottles produced) is the product of a 72 hour cold maceration, simple fermentation below 20 degrees in stainless and then a careful ageing elaboration in two parts: half the wine is aged on its lees in concrete vats and the other half in 600 litre French oak, also on lees, both portions for around 16 months, before blending. The result? A deep lemon-coloured wine, still with a green tinge, limpid and vividly alive. There's pear, fennel, peach skin, a citrus-cereal swirl, and a thread of salinity. The palate is indeed textural with lemonade fruits, lovely soft bitters, a layer of chalk and breathy with orange blossom. Unctuousness glides out to citric acidity. This is LOTS of fun!