Costalarbol is 60% Graciano, with 20% each Tempranillo and Garnacha. It is fermented in 3000 litre porous concrete, controlled at mild temperature. Malo takes place in barrel, after which the varieties are blended and the wine ages 6 months in French oak. Aromatic, wild blueberries fill the nose, which is sleek and composed, gently compelling. The structure of Graciano is clear in the mouth, with fine and elongated tannin yielding to gently persistent acidity. A wine of great line and freshness, fleshed out by beautifully judged fruit to engender a sense of relaxed ease. Graciano lays the table, Tempranillo and Garnacha come to the party. In a triumph of Viti over Vini, the tannins are perfectly formed and filled with the flavour and texture of ripe sweet seeds, so there is pip and dust subtly informing the tannin line, yet not a skerrick of excess fruitiness, or vinosity.