'La Barajuela' Palomino Fino, Pago Carrascal 2016

45yo, low-yielding Palomino Fino grown on Barajuela Albariza: layered, structured, iron-proud. Like soil, like wine. 15.5% natural abv. Hand-picked grapes are collected over a two month stretch, then given 6-7 hours of asoleo. Only 35% of the must is taken from basket press and this ferments spontaneously in bota until December. The fruit is then classified as Fino or Oloroso. The Fino (classified as uno Palma) selection is then put to biological ageing for two years, but with a much-reduced ullage percentage, compared to the contemporary Sherry norm. This is to attenuate the development of the flor, and allow soil-related aromas to continue to dominate the wine, which is given a relatively short time under flor. 3 botas of 400l each result in this un-fortified Fino.

A collision of biological ageing with fruit and terroir. It's a Fino with fresh citrus depth, layered with iodine, ocean balm, soy, fresh ripe walnuts, pomelo and some glycerol. It's round and full, neatened by fresh dancing spiciness and rimmed with chalk. Deep and savoury with a nip of bitter to finish, reflecting the soil. It has a salty-caramel tannin flow and a long splashing salt after-effect.