'Hacienda de Doña Francisca' Palomino de Flor 2021

'Hacienda de Doña Francisca' is a specific small vineyard within Pago Callejuela, on the estuary side of Sanl̼car. The Albariza here is Tosca cerrada. The fruit is picked at full maturity, which only plays out to 12% due to the cool site and poniente breezes. The juice is fermented in old Manzanilla botas, and the resultant wine is aged on fine lees with 10% ullage for 7 months of ageing under velo de flor. The smaller ullage than typical facilitates only a light coverage of flor, which in combination with the shorter ageing term, emphasises expression of the Albariza over that of the yeast.

A deep plane of chalk layers nose and palate, accompanied by equally deep herb marmalade, and a strong steely thread. It's vertical, and salty, typical of Sanl̼car palomino - bracey, racy, lightly structured, delicate and charming. Anise, marzipan, pickled ginger, peach skin, dandelion. Palomino in Albariza here is like a swimmer standing up in the shallow end of the poo, shivering.