Marco de Jerez

'La Choza' Palomino de Flor', Pago Macharnudo 2021


Macharnudo is one of the jewels of el Marco de Jerez, growing on Albariza de lentejuelas. 'La Choza' is the Blanco brothers' own small vineyard within Macharnudo. Viticulture is by the local traditional method of vara y puglar ('stick and thumb'), whereby each year the vines are pruned to an active arm (the stick), which will carry perhaps eight bunches, while the thumb side has the sprouts which will develop into next year's stick. 'La Choza' is made in the same manner as 'Hacienda de Doña Francisca' and 'Las Mercedes', but the warmer inland site and attendant influence of levante breezes yields a higher natural degree, and the wine is bottled at 13.5% abv.

Now we are in the deep end of the pool - extra volume, with beautifully structured intensity. It's soft, full, golden and earthy, a field of herbs and golden wheat. A typical touch of pan smoke comes in mid-palate. There's a wash of herb tisane in a strong, rich and deep, very savoury and mineral palate. Fenugreek, dried peach, barley water, oat biscuit, honeysuckle, sweet-sour. Swimming along the bottom of deep end, horizontal, with the depth pressure of profundity.