Casa Agrícola Moscatel Romano-Macabeo-Airen 2021

Pepe’s desire is to represent the mountains and the sea, the Mediterranean-and-interior duality of DO Alicante. It’s a blend of Parcela Benimei (Marina) and Parcela Serra Forta (Tierras de Alta Vinalopó). Organically farmed fruit is temperature-control fermented with natural vineyard yeasts in 5,000 litre tanks, then ages on lees. 40% Moscatel (coastal) and from the interior, 40% Macabeo, with Airen. It’s a flowing wine, mid weight, smelling of fennel pollen, dandelion, wild field herbs, camomile. Sapid, saline, with granite-like acidity, nettle astringency, stones, artichoke and pollen through and through.

The smell of talc expresses fragrant white tannin, and there’s lemon balm, marine saline and mandarin blossom against a background of cut green grape. Coastal Moscatel gives jasmine, rose petal and orange skin, while the hinterland fruit gives lavender, fennel, camomile. The palate’s mineral-metal tangy, chalky with lemon oil and mandarin skin. Excellent spice runs a diagonal staple through the round fruit heart, and everything is guided until it’s damned well grounded. Salt, lemon balm and white tannin repeat the nose perfectly and the green, grapey, perfumed fruit wriggles like a fish on a stick.