Malus Mama is ice-concentrated sweet Basque apple cider without appellation. The fruit comes from (in the main) Astigarraga, a village 5km from the outskirts of San Sebastian. It is the special project of winemaker and wild cat, Iñaki Otegi. He makes wines in Ribera del Duero and Bierzo, and a sweet, light, fixxy pink Txakoli among other things, but this concentrated sweet cider from his homeland is his heart's project. The Malus Mama project consists of a single cider. It's made from a mix of small and large, red, green, brown and yellow Basque apples grown on very old trees, in a dying orchard, Etxeburua, whose black clay is home to at least 17 native apple varieties. Iñaki has been managing a second orchard, Ipitzi, with sandier soils since 2017, so his fruit supply is assured beyond a failing Etxeburua.