NV Caberrubia Fino en Rama Fino de Jerez, Pago Carrascal

Caberrubia is based on 50 year old bush vines, yielding just 3 tonnes/ha, from hard, laminated barajuelas in Pago Carrascal. The highly selected fruit is picked in early September and has about 6 hours of soleo. Only 35% of the free run juice is taken. Without racking, it’s set to age in bota, undergoing natural fermentation well into December. In February, the young wine is pressed off lees and classified. The palmas are placed in almost topped bota, thus limiting the growth of flor and emphasising Corregidor’s soil aromas. Each cask is monitored and drained-or-filled to precisely regulate the desired influence of yeast in the wine style. ‘Caberrubia’ is the name of a local bird (also known as the ‘Alzacola’) which has returned to these vineyards since they reverted to organics.

Caberrubia blends several vintages of Carrascal Fino … selection material which does not make it into La Barajuela. It marks the return to Jerez of the historical practise of making Finos without adding alcohol distilled from other grapes in another region (Airen from La Mancha). Natural alcohol Finos were common throughout el Marco until 1969 when the Consejo Regulador mandated the use of fortification4 . 50 years later, history returns in the form of Caberrubia.

Fragrant rice grass, soy and citrus, saffron tea. Incredibly delicate and lovely, haunting, pure PX, sweetness balanced with chocolate bitterness, honey at end, and the soil evident throughout. Wonderful citrus rind winding structure, round and open, spicy but gentle and easy with EXCELLENT acidity and all threaded together.